Agianni has still 80 families: before Ibrahim Pacha's arrival it had 100. We passed by a Turkish tower-like residence about one hour further, in which fifteen Greeks kept Ibrahim Pacha's army at bay for fifteen days; and, last of all, when he was on the point of blowing them up with a mine, they effected their escape to the mountains, in the night. Small towers of this description abound in Greece; and they are frequently mentioned in the Scriptures (Matt. xxi. 33. Luke xiii. 4. xiv. 28; and in the Old Testament). Silk is a very important production of the province of Mistra: before the Revolution, 18,000 okkas were yielded annually; at present, only 7000 or 8000. I have distributed a considerable number of books in Mistra, and hope to send many more from Napoli: I have also sent books to the villages of this province. In the whole province of Mistra there are said to be 30,000 souls. In the evening, I walked up to the Metropolis, to take leave of the Bishop. He pressed me so strongly to spend the night with him, that I could not refuse. My visit afforded me such an opportunity of making known the Truth as I always highly value. The Bishop was very inquisitive on religious subjects; and I was enabled to inform him of the most important points of difference between our respective Churches, with great freedom. The permission, which Protestant Bishops and Clergymen have to marry, appeared extraordinary to him and his attendants: he approved of it, however, and spoke of an Eighth General Council, when the same liberty would be given to themselves. I met with much hospitality and friendship at Mistra; and feel convinced that such amicable intercourse with the Greeks may, by the Divine Blessing, be greatly serviceable to the cause of Truth. If the Greeks are not hindered by their Government, I believe there will soon be a wide and effectual door open amongst them. Leondari. April 9, 1828-The Bishop, at parting, requested me to write to him. At eight o'clock, started for Leondari. After reaching the Eurotas, we proceeded, for a considerable distance, along its banks: it is beautifully fringed with the Platanus, with poplars, and other trees: villages appear to the left, on the declivities of the mountains. We [RECORD, May, 1830.] left the Eurotas at the Village of Georgitza. Here we were overtaken by a very heavy rain, which we were obliged to bear patiently for more than an hour. At length we reached the Mill of Logara, where we found shelter for the night. The Village of Longanico is an hour distant. In the mill, I met with a Caloyer from the Monastery of St. George, which is four hours distant, on the mountains. He could not read; but I sent some Tracts by him to the Hegoumenos. He told us, that the other day a wolf in the neighbourhood had destroyed eighteen sheep. Oh! that there had been no wolves of another and a worse description in these countries! but, alas! some of those who have assumed to themselves the office of Christian Teachers, must be referred to the number of those of whom St. Paul prophesied, Acts xx. 29—After my departing shall grievous wolves enter in among you, not sparing the flock. "Wolves shall succeed for Teachers, grievous wolves, Who all the sacred mysteries of Heaven April 10-Every thing reminds me that I am in Arcadia: the country all the way to Leondari is enchanting: Nature appears in all her wildness: the whole land, hills, and dales, is a beautiful forest, or rather a natural park. The spaces between the trees are occupied by pasture-grounds, where the shepherds feed their flocks: they have, invariably, the large crook, which we observe in pictures of shepherds and shepherdesses. At Leondari we find the same desolation which everywhere else marks the steps of Ibrahim Pacha. A few houses have lately been rendered tenantable. I observed several ancient and almost ruined Churches, resembling those near the Castle of Mistra: one of them served as a Mosque before the Revolution: now, again, it has become a Christian Temple. Before the war, there were at Leondari 50 or 60 Grecian Families, and 200 Turkish: now about 20 Greek Families have re-assembled. My principal acquaintance here is the Oekonomos Panagiotteo : he is a mild, pleasing character. I presented him with a few books for the people, and engaged to send him more from Napoli. In his house I met with twelve or thirteen ragged peasants; and delivered a Dis *Milton's Paradise Lost, Book xii. 503. P course to them, to which they listened with much attention. Here, as everywhere, I gladly embrace every opportunity of testifying repentance towards God, and faith towards our Lord Jesus Christ. Karitena. April 11, 1828- From Leondari we crossed the Plain of Megalopolis, to Karitena: the journey employed us six hours. The Ruins of Megalopolis were a short distance to the right, their situation being marked by a solitary cypress: on the left was Mount Lycæus. About half way, we reached the Alpheus, and crossed it just below Karitena. Immediately after my arrival I gave away a few Tracts: but I soon had reason to repent this proceeding, for the house was almost instantly beset by an immense number of boys, clamorous for books. I was unable to satisfy them, as my stock is but small. Went up to the Castle which Kolokotroni has lately built, and visited his mother: the old lady had with her a little boy, her great grandson. I was rather amused to hear her always designating her son, the celebrated Chieftain, by the appellation, 66 The Old Man." She soon began conversing concerning "the Almighty;" and thus afforded me an opportunity of shewing the importance of having that Great Being for our Friend. She requested one of the Captains, who was present, to give me "the answer. 66 " April 12-Before the Revolution, there were in Karitena 200 houses; of which 36 were Turkish, the rest Greeks: there are now only 82 families here. In the province are 140 Villages, which Spilios Kolas counted off to me on his string of beads. The province may contain 30,000 souls. Kolokotroni having informed me, in Ægina, that I should see at Karitena 'the retreats of the Greeks," I to-day went to examine one of them. The excursion has been a most extraordinary one. After descending a steep path, almost to the channel of the Alpheus, we turned off upon the right bank, climbing along the edge of a dangerous precipice, and having precipices far more tremendous impending over our heads. The scenery is most romantic: on both sides, the river has three abrupt banks; they terminate in hills of great height, and are adorned with the most beautiful forest scenery. The river rolls between, contracted into a very narrow channel; and, at this time, it was rolling tumultuously along, being swollen by the late rains. The cavern, which was the object of our expedition, is in the face of the rock, and it was not without danger that we scrambled up to it: we entered it to a considerable distance, without reaching the extremity. In this cave, no less than 1000 persons, by actual enumeration, found shelter. They had provisions for five months; and when the Arabs came and fired at the mouth of the cavern from the crest of the rock, they laughed at their efforts. The Israelites in ancient times resorted to similar means of defence, Judges vi. 2. 1 Sam. xiii. 6. Isaiah ii. 19. From one of the rocks above, the Greeks precipitated a poor Arab Prisoner. My attendant assured me that his limbs parted from his body before he reached the bottom. At Karitena, it is still usual for schoolboys to have a small clean board, on which the master writes the Alphabet, or any other lesson which he intends his scholars to read. As soon as one lesson is finished, the writing is marked out, or scraped out; and the board may thus be continually employed for writing new lessons. Not only does this instrument harmonize, in its use, with the writing-table mentioned Luke i. 63, but the Greeks call it by the very same name, πıvanĺdıov.* April 13-I preached in the principal Church, from the words, If ye then be risen with Christ, seek those things which are above: but I lament to say, that I preached without energy and effect. Of what importance it is for a Minister of the Gospel to have his own mind always deeply affected by those important truths which he proclaims to others! then, and then only, will his words fall with weight upon the hearts of his hearers. "What can be more awful," says Baxter, than a dead preacher preaching to dead hearers the living truths of the Living God!” May such a character be never applicable to myself or any other Missionary! The Greeks observe those early habits, in regard to the time of Divine Service, of which we find such frequent mention in the Sacred Writings. They have ge nerally finished their Liturgy before an Englishman leaves his bed: hence, at Hydra, Karitena, and other places where I have preached in the Churches, I have been literally in the situation of the Prophets, rising up early and speaking unto them (Jerem. vii. 13). In Karitena I I have since found that this Writing-table is common in other Greek Schools. left fifty Tracts, for distribution, with the Oekonomos; besides others which I gave to a schoolmaster. Soon after the Service, I set out for the Monastery of Kalami: the road leads over picturesque hills and dales. Near to the Monastery, we came, to my surprise, to very extensive ruins of polygonal masonry: they are the remains of the ancient Gortys. After conversing for a short time with the three or four Monks in the Monastery of Kalami, we proceeded to the Monastery of Agianni. Leaving the little Church of St. Andrew, which is situated on the banks of the Gortyna, we ascended one of the most romantic glens which I ever beheld. On both sides, the rocks tower to a prodigious height, having their precipitous faces adorned by the most elegant sylvan scenery. Down this tremendous height fall very beautiful cascades: at the bot tom of the abyss, the Gortyna roars and dashes along, more frequently heard than seen. In the face of the rocks are many of those caves in which, for the last three years, the Greeks have found refuge from Ibrahim Pacha. Most of them have the entrance in part walled up; and their situation and form give them, in some degree, the appearance of martins' nests. The Monastery of Agianni itself is nothing else than one of these caverns, with its exterior built up on a larger scale: it required no small toil to reach it. Here we found three or four Caloyers, and several families which had fled hither for refuge in these troublesome times. Never," they said, "had a Frank made his appearance there before." I delivered to them a discourse on the danger of an unconverted state: they listened with much attention. The distance from hence to the Monastery of Philosophou, could we have employed wings to fly across the valley, is short; but we had to descend and ascend, to cross the foaming Gortyna on a tree thrown across it, to climb over most abrupt and dangerous precipices, and to wander about in a thick forest without footpath. At last, after many a weary step, we reached the Monastery: our horses had gone round, from the Church of St. Andrew's, by another road. 66 April 14, 1828-In the Monastery of Philosophou I have found several Manuscripts. One of them is a fine Lectionary of the Gospels, on vellum, and held in great veneration, as a miracle-working Gospel. There is also on vellum, a Manu script of St. Matthew; and various others, containing Discourses of different Fathers. Demitzani. me. Walked from the Philosophou to Demitzani. To my surprise, on approaching the town, a large portion of the inhabitants, headed by the Priests, came out to meet Bells also were rung; and patararoes fired. Little more could have been done, had the Governor himself arrived: such a reception as this I felt to be something more than is suitable to a Missionary, and would gladly have dispensed with it. It gave me, however, an opportunity of addressing a great part of these, my kind friends, on the subject of Religion; and they listened with seriousness. With two of the principal Priests I have had some free conversation, and, I am happy to say, with good effect. laboured to shew them that the important part of Religion was not either the immersing or sprinkling in Baptism; nor even whether the Holy Spirit proceeded from the Father only, or from the Father and the Son conjointly; but that it consisted in a genuine conversion of the disposition and character of men. I The School of Demitzani is by far the most celebrated in the Morea. It was established 65 years ago, by Hadji Gerasimo. The first master was Agapius. From all quarters, scholars resorted hither; and there were sometimes as many as 220. Many Bishops and other distinguished characters were educated here: among the rest, Gregorius the Patriarch, who was put to death by the Grand Signior. There was formerly a library of about 1500 volumes connected with the School; but great part of the books have perished, having been used for making cartridges at the siege of Tripolitza. There are about 350 houses in Demitzani, and most happily they have escaped that general ruin in which almost every other part of the country has been in volved. There are at Demitzani several powder-mills: the inhabitants, however, acknowledge that they cannot produce gunpowder equal to the European. Zatouna. April 15-I walked over to Zatouna, a neighbouring village of about 150 families, and was received with equal or even with greater honours than at Demitzani. The Priests and principal inhabitants met me on the brow of the hill, from which their village first makes its appearance; and, with bell-ringing and firing of patararoes, accompanied me to the Church. Here all joined in singing an Easter Hymn; which ended with the accustomed chaunt for the three Sovereigns who have so happily interfered for the welfare of Greece. It was truly affecting to observe the enthusiastic manner in which they implored long life on these their benefactors. As I had now a Congregation assembled before me, I delivered a regular Discourse from the Bishop's seat, pressing upon them those infinitely important interests, in compa rison of which, all else is less than nothing, and vanity. I also gave them an account of the Bible Society, and urged the importance of procuring and studying the Holy Scriptures. I am sorry to find that at Zatouna the old divisions have not yet ceased; but they complained much to me of some individuals who dis turb the peace of the community: they have actually excommunicated five of them, and taken other steps of a nature rather too violent. Before I departed, I distributed Tracts amongst the Children of the School: 60 or 70 of them were assembled. A valuable relic of the Library of Demitzani still remains; viz. a beautiful Manuscript of the Homilies of St. Basil. It is on vellum, large folio, beautifully illuminated. I have also found a volume containing several Manuscripts bound up together. That which is most beautifully written is the Aphorisms of Hippocrates;" another is the "Melissa (Bee) of Antonius." The latter was written, as the copyist testifies, in the year 1587. 66 Livargi. April 16, 1828-We set out about two hours before day-light; and at sun-set arrived at the Village of Livargi. On the way we crossed the River Rophias (the ancient Ladon), one of the finest streams in Peloponnesus. All along its banks, plane-trees abound, deriving nourishment from its waters. They strongly remind me of the beautiful similitudes in the First Psalm, and in Jeremiah xvii. 8. In the East, this and various other Scriptural images, which are furnished by the peculiarity of the climate, are well understood. In our own country, where moisture never fails, their force is not perceived. Approaching Tripotama, we saw, on the left, the Monastery erected by the Monk who lately became so famous throughout the Morea. This old man preached to the Greeks to abstain from theft and other sins, and strongly pressed upon them to fast perpetually; to abs tain from the duties of marriage; to give up all Turkish property which had fallen into their hands; and to use no other weapon than the sign of the Cross. He solemnly assured the misguided multitudes, that in this manner the Turks would all perish, and themselves would be defended from on high. I should myself have been rather disposed to consider the man as deceived, than a deceiver, were it not for the immense sums of money which he amassed by means of his preaching. I have been assured that he collected no less than 700,000 piastres, the offerings of the enthusiastic multitudes. Their eyes were opened when Ibrahim Pacha came and put the old man to death, and took possession of his treasures. April 17 -This morning I enjoyed much freedom in preaching in the principal Church, and warned my hearers of their danger, and admonished them, that in no other name under heaven could they hope for salvation, except the Name of Christ. In Livargi are about 150 houses. From Ibrahim Pacha they have suffered nothing; as they submitted to the Turks, or worshipped," according to the common expression. From their own countrymen, however, they met with severe sufferings: Sisinnes and Gennæos came, and, according to their account, ruined them by exactions. Here is a Schoolmaster, with about forty scholars: I gave him Tracts. The inhabitants have also resolved to establish a Public School, and have engaged a Master. April 18-I feel persuaded that a very serious religious impression has been produced on many persons in Livargi. May it be permanent! I proceeded to the Monastery of Sopato, and found here a considerable number of vellum Manuscripts of the Fathers. Had any Traveller the time to examine the Manuscripts which still exist in Greece, I believe he might find some valuable relics. At Sopato are about 150 houses. Kalavrita. April 19-The road to Kalavrita is at first mountainous; and all the hills are adorned with forests. We found scarcely any thing but ruins in the town of Kalavrita: before the Revolution it had about 800 houses, Turkish and Greek. I noticed that the Greeks had treated a large Mosque here as we find that the Israelites, under Jehu, treated the Temple of Baal, 2 Kings x. 27. Megaspelaion. We arrived in the evening at Megaspelaion. This is by far the most extensive Monastic Establishment in the Morea. It contains 150 Monks. During the Revolution, it has become a species of fortress, having a very strong position. There were assembled here no less than 5000 Refugees; and though Ibrahim Pacha came twice and made attempts upon them, he was unable to effect any thing. The Caloyers informed me that the Monastery was founded 1400 years ago; but their papers are lost, The great attraction to Megaspelaion is a celebrated picture of the Panagia, which they seriously believe to be the workmanship of the Evangelist Luke. A considerable part of the Mo. nastery is, as its name denotes, a Large Cave: a striking precipice of 400 feet impends so far over it, as almost to secure it from any annoyance from above; and it is surrounded by the most romantic scenery. April 20, 1828: Sunday-This morning I preached in the Church, from these words-If ye then be risen with Christ, seek those things which are above. A very large number of persons was present, not only of the Caloyers, but also of the Refugees. They listened with great attention. Let me record it as an instance of peculiar liberality in the Oriental Church and in the Greek Nation, that a Protestant Minister has been permitted often to preach in their Churches, and even at the most solemn Services of their Religion. At Egina, I preached four times, with the sanction of the President of the Legislative Body, and with many members of that very body for my hearers: in that instance the Laity shewed their liberality. At other times, I have met with a similar display of good feeling on the part of the Clergy. The most peculiar example of the latter description occurred on this occasion, in the large Monastery of Megaspelaion. Here I preached to a Congregation of probably more than 100 Monks, with the sanction of the Superiors of the Monastery, and in that very Chapel where they preserve and worship the picture of the Virgin which is attributed to the pencil of St. Luke. Whatever may be the future state of Greece, I shall always cherish amongst my fondest remembrances these instances of kindly feeling; and I shall earnestly pray, May God bestow on this Church the privilege of Philadelphia (Rev. iii. 8), Behold, I have set before thee an open door, and no man can shut it! and may all those who are permitted, as Heralds of the Gospel, to occupy this sacred opportunity of doing good, be men filled with the most tender affection towards the members of this communion; and endowed with such heavenly wisdom, and aided by such divine power, that they may be enabled to apply to the Oriental Church the words of the Prophet, Arise, shine, for thy light is come, and the glory of the Lord is risen upon thee! April 21-With Germanos and others, I have had valuable opportunities of pointing out the leading errors of the Greeks: when questioned by them on various subjects, I declared my faith, and gave my reasons for it. When truth is developed in this friendly manner, I find the effect good. Phonia. Our journey to-day has been of a most mountainous description. We reached the region of snow, and looked down upon the Gulf of Lepanto. The common Crocus, the Fumaria Bulbosa, a Hyacinth, and many other plants, were flowering beautifully on the very verge of the snow. We traversed extensive Pine Forests; and, after descending from the lofty mountain of Chelmos, we found a very populous country. In all directions, villages appeared beautifully situated: the principal is Klouchines. On one of the neighbouring summits of Chelmos, one of the greatest disasters befel the Greeks which they have experienced at the hand of Ibrahim Pacha. A vast concourse of people had fled to that lofty eminence, supposing that it would prove inaccessible to the Arabs: but, unhappily, the words of Jeremiah were literally applicable to them-Truly, in vain is salvation hoped for from the hills and from the multitude of mountains (iii. 23). Neither rocks nor snows prevented the Arabs from springing, like wolves, upon their prey; and hundreds of the poor Greeks were precipitated headlong down the rocks, and hundreds led away into captivity. The women, in these parts, are of a most laborious character: they are everywhere seen at work in the fields, and the most toilsome employments of agriculture are performed by their hands. The men, as I am informed, leave them for five months or more in the year; and are |